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Cross-processing and printing a cross-processed negative

Cross processing is the process of developing Slide film in Color negative chemicals. Slide film is higher contrast than colour negative and the colours become strange because the film is supposed to be developed in a different way (E-6 slide film chemicals).

Below are some recently developed prints. The prints were all developed with the same settings which should have produced a regular color print. But because I am using a cross processed negative, the colours  are shifted. This is not a bad thing however as this is the desired effect. You can reference what film I used by looking at the contact sheet samples below. All of the photos were developed with the same settings to keep consistency. If you look at the contact sheet samples below, you can see if the photos were taken at different times of the day or under different lighting conditions by their variation in colour.

If you are into Lomography or similar styles of photography, this is usually the process in which people use to make their images look more interesting. There are many Lomography books that are filled to the brim with cross processed shots.

Every brand of slide film which is cross-processed contains a distinctive look. I hope the guide below can help you choose what negative you would like to use.



image

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print development + negative scanning comparison

In the digital age, less and less people are developing prints and choosing to scan their negatives instead. This is admittedly more economical and cheaper than printing, but there are still many advantages to making prints via an enlarger. I feel there is a certain magic when developing prints that cannot be felt when simply scanning a negative. I am a big fan of scanning and also digital photography, but I really get my kicks out of developing a traditional print.

Some myths or over exaggerations

‘’Developing prints is hard’’ - It’s easier than Photoshop! Bad joke, it is very easy.

‘’You must be a chemical wizard’’ - 100ml concentrate + 400ml water hmmm… pretty basic if you ask me. Making hot chocolate is harder.

‘’If you get the temperature wrong, it will mess up your print ‘’ - nope, the majority of my prints were at the wrong temperature actually.

‘’you need a darkroom’’ – it is useful to have a darkroom, but you can just buy a dark curtain instead and convert a small room into your own darkroom. Here is my setup below (nothing fancy right?).

   

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Use your ipod / iphone as a mini lightbox!

An iPod can be used for many things in the darkroom. I mentioned digital truth’s timer app earlier in my blog which allows you to look up development times and also use a red-light timer interface while listening to your music simultaneously. I’m sure other people have thought of this next idea, but your iPod can also be used as a mini light box. Rather than paying £80 for a light box which will get in your way, just use your iPod/iphone.

Here’s how:

1. Download the white tkbmedia image below by right clicking and selecting ‘save as’.

2. Add the image to your iPod.

3. Maximise the brightness and open the image on your iPod/iphone and DONE!

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Developing colour film by yourself

Developing your own film is a lot easier than people think. In fact, in some ways it’s easier than developing black and white film. Chemicals can be bought as a set, and this means you can buy all your chemicals in one. The sets are easily mixed and there are only 2 baths (two chemicals) during processing. The only difference is that you have to keep your chemicals at 38 degrees via a thermostatic heater similar to that of a tropical fish tank heater. After development, you can either print your photos via an enlarger or by scanning them using a negative scanner.

I have only used 2 brands of development kit but I have had good results with them both. Tetenal can be found in England or America, whilst Naniwa can be found on shop shelves in Japan (Yodabashi, bic camera ect). English instructions for the Naniwa kit can be found here.

                  Colortec C-41 kit by Tetenal (1litre kit / 5 litre kit)

             

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Developing your own black and white film

People often get put off developing their own black and white film due to the thought of mixing chemicals and the myth of having to have everything exactly right. The truth is, that it’s not actually that hard, and it is a very rewarding experience to have full control and continuity over your negatives. Developing can teach you so much about photography, not only in terms of exposure and how you should expose, but also understanding contrast and each film’s traits.

This is how simple it is:

1. Load the film into the tank in the dark bag

2. Mix the chemicals to the correct ratio using the beaker and measuring jug at around 20 degrees.

3. Pour the chemicals into the tank, timing them with your app or stopwatch and then rinse for a few minutes and hang up to dry.

What are the advantages of developing your own film?

Pushing and pulling

pushing and pulling allows you to two things mainly. It allows you to shoot in low light/very bright conditions boosting or reducing your exposure in development (+1 to +3 or -1 to -3 stops). It also allows you to alter the films usual characteristics such as contrast and grain. This may not seem like a big deal at the start of developing, but if you really want to control and ‘know’ film, it’s time to start pushing and pulling. It all sounds a bit technical, but all you need to is develop for a longer/shorter time (and of course rating your film at the correct ISO during exposure).

The photo below was taken on Tmax 400 which was then pushed +3 stops in development. This was shot at 1/60 with a f2.8 lens with no flash. Pushing your film means you can take pictures in darker circumstances and create a more dramatic image using contrast.

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